The suit may make the first impression, but the shirt is the foundation of your tailored look. If you’ve ever experienced a collar that chokes, cuffs that are too tight, or a body that billows, you understand the frustrations of off-the-rack sizing.
A perfect shirt fit is an essential upgrade. Here is a breakdown of why investing in custom shirts is a non-negotiable step for any well-dressed individual.
1. Goodbye Gaps: The Precision of a Custom Collar
The collar is the most visible sign of a shirt’s quality and fit, especially when worn with a tie or suit jacket.
- The Problem with Standard Sizes: Ready-to-wear shirts force you to choose one number for both neck size and sleeve length (e.g., 15.5 / 34). This often leads to a collar that is either too tight (uncomfortable) or too loose (sloppy).
- The Custom Solution: A bespoke shirt is cut to your precise neck circumference, with an allowance for comfort. Crucially, a tailor accounts for the shape and angle of your shoulders and neck, ensuring the collar sits flat against the collarbone without bowing or gapping—a sign of true quality.
- Style Control: You choose the exact style (Spread, Cutaway, Button-Down) and stiffness (fused or unfused) to match your personal aesthetic and the kind of knot you prefer to tie.
2. The Golden Ratio: Mastering the Torso Fit
The body of the shirt should be clean and flattering, not baggy or restrictive.
- The Chest and Shoulders: The garment must accommodate your chest and shoulder slope without pulling at the buttons or restricting movement. Custom shirts take into account your posture and shoulder height (e.g., one shoulder slightly lower than the other) to ensure the seams sit perfectly on the edge of your shoulder line.
- The Waist/Body: This is where the fit truly shines. Mass-produced shirts are often cut straight to fit the largest common denominator, leading to excess fabric (the infamous ‘muffin top’). Bespoke shirts are contoured to your waist, eliminating billow while leaving enough room to move comfortably.
3. The Details Matter: Custom Cuffs and Sleeves
The correct sleeve length and cuff circumference are crucial for a professional look, especially when wearing a jacket.
- Sleeve Length: A perfect shirt fit requires the cuff to hit exactly where the wrist meets the hand, allowing about a half-inch of shirt cuff to show beneath your suit jacket sleeve. In a ready-to-wear shirt, you often compromise this length to get the right collar size.
- The Cuff Fit: A custom shirt allows you to specify the circumference of the cuff. It can be wide enough to pass your hand through easily, but narrow enough to rest neatly on your wrist, keeping the cuff exactly where it should be. You also choose the style, from standard barrel cuffs to elegant French (double) cuffs.
Custom Shirts Are the Foundation of Tailoring
While a tailored suit feels like a luxury, a custom shirt is a daily necessity. It’s the garment closest to your body, and its fit impacts your posture, comfort, and confidence every moment you wear it. Stop settling for a shirt that is “close enough.” Invest in the precision that only bespoke shirts can offer.
